Ponti Gennari & Co - Best of the Best
Ponti Gennari & Co - Best of the Best
Upon a time: A vintage jeweler, bracelet and case maker worthy of some fresh airtime
(Fig. 1 - Advertisement from the era, image courtesy of @vintagewatchesarchive)
Background and brief history
The Ponti family arrived in Switzerland around 1850 and the two brothers opened a jewelry factory in Geneva. The Gennari family joined their cousins in the early 19th century, and the company was renamed Ponti Gennari.
In 1946 they hired a key employee, a young man named Gerald Genta, who no doubt was instrumental with his influence on the company and their bold and daring designs. Reportedly when his contract termed in 1950, he took his tools and threw them into Lake Geneva, proclaiming he would never be an employee working for a “boss” again and he kept his word indeed. (Fig. 2). Read more here, Gerald Genta.
(Fig. 2 - employment document between Ponti Gennari and Gerald Genta - image courtesy Stan Ponti/@gerald.genta.heritage)
Over time, this business expanded, particularly in watchmaking components (cases and bracelets) for major houses such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron & Constantin and Piaget. In addition, a segment of production included ladies jewel watches and bracelets for the likes of Patek (Figs. 10, 11, 29, 30-35) and Cartier (Figs. 27-28).
Ponti Gennari received recognition and accolades for their top quality creations. As published in Europa Star, the firm won a jewelry design competition in 1967 within the watchmaking segment for the design of a unique handbag watch, besting a well known former employee, who was then working with Audemars Piguet (Fig. 37). As an aside, perhaps the honorable mention received by referenced former employee served as a form of inspiration for him to achieve greater heights during the next decade?
Around 1970, the company and the building on Rue des Vieux Grenadiers were sold to Piaget (Ateliers Réunis). The building was later acquired by Patek Philippe, which turned it into its museum as it remains to this day (Figs. 3,4).
(Figs. 3, 4 - Original Ponti Gennari manufacture, today the Patek Philippe museum. Images courtesy of @jojolamontre)
Cases
While the company is most oft regarded for their amazing and sometimes avant-garde bracelets, they also produced some exceptional cases for wrist and pocket watches for the likes of Patek Philippe, Vacheron & Constantin, Omega, Zenith and Piaget. As a case-maker, Ponti Gennari developed some interesting, bold and fluid designs for their clients over several decades. Their Maker stamp on the inside of such cases is Key 26 (Fig. 5 ). Among the interesting case designs the company manufactured for select brands include; Patek references 1436 (later series), 2540, Vacheron & Constantin “Cioccolatone” reference 4373 and a “disco volante” style pocket watch during the ‘80’s, after they were acquired as the in-house case maker for Piaget (Figs. 6-11).
(Fig. 5 - inner case-back bearing the Makers key stamping of 26, image courtesy of @vintagewatchesarchive)
(Fig. 6 - Patek ref. 1436 J Breguet dial from ‘59. Later generation cases such as present example by Ponti Gennari. First generation cases by Emile Vichet. Image courtesy of Phillips auctions)
(Fig. 7 - ‘65 Patek ref. 1436 J with crown split seconds actuator. Important and only known double-signed Gubelin example in market. Image courtesy of Christies auctions).
(Fig. 8 - Vacheron Constantin ref. 4737 R, image courtesy of Matthew Bain)
(Fig. 9 - Patek ref. 2540 J, image courtesy of Sotheby’s auctions)
(Fig. 10 - ‘80’s Piaget Disco Volante style pocketwatch retailed by Jean Ete Paris, image courtesy of Everywatch)
(Fig. 11 - Patek ref. 3363/2 18k integrated jeweled ladies watch and bracelet from the ‘60’s, image courtesy of Grallium)
Bracelets
In my opinion, among the top tier bracelet manufacturers of the era, Ponti Gennari was at the pinnacle and concentrated their bracelet design and production work in close collaboration with very few and select watch manufacturers. Other top bracelet manufacturers of the time included Gay Freres, which also produced bracelets for the top watch brands, yet were much broader in their work with production for additional brands. Jean-Paul Eccofey is another of the top bracelet manufacturers of the time and well known for many mesh and beaded examples worthy of mention.
In the hand and on the wrist, the level of craftsmanship and presence of the Ponti Gennari bracelet examples I personally own is unparalleled. The finishing and attention to detail are quite evident and when worn add a welcomed level of panache to the attached timepiece. These bracelets also include markings, stampings of the manufacture in addition to the makers stamp consisting of the letters “PG” bordering a star inside a diamond shape, which along with the metal mark takes a back seat to the brand stampings and is hidden inside the clasp. (Fig. 12).
(Fig. 12 - PG maker stamping inside bracelet clasp)
(Fig. 13 - Patek stamping on inside clasp)
Figs. 14, 15 - note the quality of construction with closed and notched end-link tube and finished outer beading on rose beaded bracelet )
(Figs. 16, 17 - Beaded bracelet full length halves and on Patek ref. 565 R)
Several additional examples of their bracelets showing different designs include the very rare and bold so-called “lobster” or “scalloped” bracelet also known officially as Type G in the Patek catalogue, which was made exclusively for the ref. 2526 (Figs. 18 - 22) and the beautiful and intricately designed Type O bracelet shown in Fig. 23.
(Fig. 18 - inner clasp on Type G Lobster/Scallop bracelet)
(Fig. 19 - full length Type G bracelet for Patek ref. 2526 J)
(Fig. 20 - Type G bracelet on the wrist. Note the fluid and intricate design)
(Fig. 21 - Stamped opposing PP on clasp)
(Fig. 22 - Patek stamping on inner clasp of Type G bracelet. A common observation seen on bracelets made in collaboration and specific to and for Patek references)
(Fig. 23 - Type O bracelet listed in Patek catalogue material for ref. 2573 and shown on ref. 2551 G. An attractive combination. Often these special bracelets were placed on similar shaped references per customer preference. Image courtesy of Ali Nael)
(Fig. 24 - Patek 2540 J from ‘61 with Milanese style bracelet. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s auctions)
(Fig. 25 - Patek ref. 1450 P from ‘56 with diamond secured on a 18k white gold bracelet. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s auctions).
(Fig. 26 - Patek ref. 534 R from ‘41 on integrated ‘grain-penche’ or angled bead style bracelet. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s auctions).
(Figs. 27, 28 - Cartier ladies diamond and 18k bracelet with stamped clasp by Ponti Gennari from 1925. Images courtesy of Bonhams auctions)
(Fig. 29 - Patek ref. 1276 J from ‘45. Ladies concealed dial in elaborate, braided bracelet. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s auctions).
(Fig. 30 - Patek ref. 4117-1g from ‘73. Unique ladies elliptical white gold and diamond bracelet watch with turquoise and butterfly wing dial. Retailed by Asprey. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s auctions).
(Figs. 31-33 - ‘61 Patek ref. 3006/7 with diamonds and rubies. An important example that likely required very close collaboration between Patek, case-maker Emile Vichet and Ponti Gennari. Figs. 31, 32 illustrate integrated and intricately designed ladies 18k braided bracelet with hinged cover containing diamonds and rubies over hidden dial. Fig. 33 of stamped clasp. Images courtesy of Aniquorum auctions).
(Figs. 34-36 - Patek ladies very rare, unique and unconventional, concealed dial bracelet watch ref. 3160 J from ‘54. Images courtesy of Monaco Legends auctions).
In summary
Through the many personal, shared and public images I’ve curated for this writing from across various decades, it’s clear to me the level of quality, innovation and collaboration between Ponti Gennari and select manufactures was at the pinnacle of the horological world for design during the era. I attempted to capture some examples and narrative to illustrate the breadth and depth of the firms work during its existence and highlight some historically important pieces they were party to creating.
The Ponti namesake of Ponti Gennari remains to this day in Geneva, engaged in the world of horology with the father and son team of Laurent and Stan selling watches under their own business, Ponti Collection in Geneva. A special thanks to Stan, for sharing some of the historical information used for this writing. The history and production contributions of Ponti Gennari remain relevant and very important within the vintage collector community to this day. For those that made it this far, I hope you found the brief review of this iconic brand and their history interesting and informative.
(Fig. 37 - ‘67 First place award in the watchmaking segment of jewelry competition for unique watch handbag design. Image courtesy of Europa Star).
Thanks for reading.
@aircooltime